Originally created in 1944 and w/a bottle said to be inspired by Mae West's curvy figure, the formula changed slightly in 1987. Now: bergamot, peach, plum, cumin, sandalwood, rosewood, lemon, rose, jasmine, ylang, oakmoss, patchouli, musk, amber, civet, patchouli, & leather.

Despite its sexual overtones (which are mild by my personal standards & on my skin), it's too sophisticated & elegant to evoke Mae West. Instead, thanks to the velvety rose, oakmoss, citrus & santal, half of me feels like I'm channeling the sexier side of a sleek Ava Gardner:

But when the cumin, leather, civet, amber & deeply balsamic labdanum resins roar, the other half of me feels like something out of a Mert & Marcus bondage shoot. Femme is all about duality: feminine & masculine; hard & soft; cool sophistication vs hot lust; intimacy vs structure

If you're a guy who's never worn Femme, don't let the name put you off. Amouage's Jubilation 25, Roja Dove's Nüwa, Dusita's Oud Infini, & Papillon's Salomé were all inspired by & replicate Femme & they're worn by men. If you love the skankiest old vtg Mitsouko, you'll LOVE this!

One of the best parts of the vtg EDP is about 2.5 hrs in when the leather melts into decadently rich sandalwood, aided by custardy vanillic ylang. Jasmine & cedar float; the cumin's taken a Valium & chilled out; & everything is just THICK spicy, creamy suede & unisex sultriness

Again, I'm only describing the vtg EDP. The most common concentration, the EDT, is light as gauze on me, even in vtg form. The modern, post 2005/06 EDT is really not good, imo: shrill, metallic bergamot; rough, faux cedar; NO real, creamy sandalwood or oakmoss; no leather at all.

The vtg EDP's drydown is f* HOT and, yet, continuing that dichotomous duality, also so incredibly cozy, like a loving hug. Spiced cream via santal, suede, ylang vanilla, cumin, & glowing amber. SO much fantastic santal! It's a softer, non-powdery version of #MAAI's drydown:

I'm getting to the ideal drydown point for a jaded reviewer: snuffling yr arm & realising that, if the scent were stronger, you'd want to have sex w/ yr arm. TBH the close Gardoni santal signature drydown is richer & stronger (due to synths) but this is smoother, w/o Tonka powder

@Kafkaesque_Blog @silkselkie I heard that #femme is close to my all time favorite #Jubilation25 ? Is it true?

@Blueberryandoat @silkselkie Very, very true, at least in the EDP or Parfum vtg versions. There is ZERO question in my mind that Jubilation 25 was inspired by Femme. Zero.

@Kafkaesque_Blog I had forgotten that I have this stashed away in the closet. I detest the new fragrances coming out...all smell alike.

@cincobayou It's so, so good, especially from the 60-90 minute mark down to the nuzzalicious drydown. I sometimes just spray a bit on my pillow case and sheets and then just inhale hard. So addictive that sandalwood, tonka, amber drydown. Mmmmm.... Please take yours out tonight & spritz!