Published: July 17, 2023
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Getting a lot of questions regarding my criticism of Daniel Craig's clothes. Common questions: "How can you dress if you're muscular?" "Should no one wear skinny suits?" "What about a more modern silhouette?" Let's talk about some of these points. đź§µ

Image in tweet by derek guy

Craig often wears clothes that are too tight for his body. This causes the buttoning point to strain across his waist, the lapels to buckle away from the chest, and the coat's collar to lift off his neck.

Image in tweet by derek guy

His right sleeve is often two inches too short. I suspect this is because his bicep is too tight and he is right-handed. When he waves or shakes people's hands, his tight sleeve is prone to riding up on him, leaving him with too much shirt cuff. Happens often at press events.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

A good sleeve should hang well, which is to say it should be relatively free from wrinkles. This comes from two things: 1) enough room for the arm inside and 2) sleeve should be pitched correctly for the arm (not too forward or back, relative to how the wearer naturally stands)

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

It's very much possible to get clothes made for a muscular build that's both flattering and comfortable. These garments don't pucker or pull. (Lebron's trousers bunch at the bottom bc they were tailored for dress shoes and he's wearing sneakers here, but it's otherwise good.)

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

These clothes will be more comfortable and allow movement. When you feel more comfortable, you will be more stylish. You will also look more at ease, so the clothes will look natural on you. You will be able to hug people without feeling like the center back seam is going to rip.

It's not that skinny suits can't be worn. It's that the cut has to work for your body. Notice Dior and Saint Laurent ads always feature a very slim model. Clothes hang right. By contrast, Craig looks like he had to squeeze into his suit. The effect is more "sausage casing."

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

Hedi Slimane, who helped kick off the trend for skin tight suits in the late 1990s/ early 2000s, was once the Creative Director of Saint Laurent Paris. And Yves Saint Laurent himself wore very slim suits on occasion. His body was built for it.

Image in tweet by derek guy

As for how you can modernize the suit, there are lots of ways: material, color, silhouette, or styling. Impossible to cover everything here, but the principles for good tailoring still apply to pics below: collar hugs neck, clean lines, no pulling, etc.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

Will leave you with one more example. Both men are about the same height and have muscular builds. Craig emphasizes his build by slimming the suit until it looks like he bought the wrong size. The second still has a flattering build (V-shaped silhouette), but has clean lines

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

@dieworkwear i don't even like clothes that much but i'm gonna follow because i like how much you like clothes

@dieworkwear “How can you dress if you're muscular?”

Image in tweet by derek guy

@dieworkwear Two really really great threads in one day. Probably one of the most interesting Twitter accounts I follow. Only recently started following too.

@dieworkwear @SCynic1 I will never look at Daniel Craig and his one long arm the same

@dieworkwear Even though, I don’t wear suits, your tweets are teaching me things to think about, which is resulting in me dressing better.

@dieworkwear Like everyone else in this thread, I've been loving following this subject with zero prior knowledge. Would love to read more extremely specific clothing facts (and on women's clothing too if you have the interest to discuss it!)

@dieworkwear Any fits you've seen him in that actually look good by your analysis?

@dieworkwear Thank you for being a great voice in this space! 🙌

@dieworkwear This, if nothing else, draws thoughtful attention to how much consideration and math goes into designing and tailoring clothes. 10/10. No notes.

@dieworkwear Daniel Craig style is very good. A top actor can't dress with an #oldmoney style. They are more dynamic and trendy. Also an actor in promo needs to travel and wear a different suit everyday and it's a lot of effort. They can't look perfectly ironed like a Tom Ford movie.

@dieworkwear let's not

@dieworkwear Really sharp on all fronts. Best example of expert knowledge helpfully applied to a topic I’ve seen in a while. Thank you and may you find all the value you’ve given back

@dieworkwear I do love that fuchsia colored velvet jack though! Just needs to be a wee bit bigger and it would be perfect.👌

@dieworkwear This is fascinating. Tailored clothes (not necessarily bespoke) are so flattering. It’s a pity this isn’t more prevalent for men and women.

@dieworkwear You woke up today and decided to crush it

@dieworkwear He’s married to Rachel Weisz, he can wear anything he wants and it’s the epitome of good taste, sir. 👌🏽

@dieworkwear Following because my dad was a great dresser, and used many of the things you've mentioned here today when selecting clothing.

@dieworkwear What do you think of this? Is he getting better?

Image in tweet by derek guy

@dieworkwear U were dead on with King Felipes suit assesment - tight pants, short way too fitted jackets are the worse style ever invented.

@dieworkwear yrs ago had a jazz musician bf and made him a 'bespoke' velvet evening jacket using men's Vogue pattern. It had so many details you mention, as i recall, including special info on how to retain that soft lapel line & many fittings. :) musta been nutz to do all that work !

@dieworkwear He looks amazing In this. Admittedly it’s a wee bit tight, but I love the colour on him. Nice to see a confident man wearing colours !

@dieworkwear basically: let me explain how there's only one way to dress, my classical one, and everyone doing otherwise is wrong. đź§µ

@dieworkwear Thoughts on David Byrn?

@dieworkwear Jesus Christ go back to sleep

@dieworkwear The sleeves on the jacket are way too short. The whole suit makes him look stumpy

@dieworkwear Now do Harvey Specter

@dieworkwear SIr, you are aware there is Lese-majeste law in place within the UK to specifically prohibited any criticism of 007!

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