There are two keys to understanding why this doesn't work. The first is knowing the difference between a suit and a sport coat. A suit is a garment where the jacket and pants are cut from the same cloth, and they're meant to be worn together.

A sport coat is when the jacket is meant to be worn with trousers cut from a different cloth.

I won't rehash this info here, but you can read more about the difference between suits and sport coats in the thread below, which happens to also address why Steve Harvey's theory is wrong. It gets into the nuances. https://x.com/dieworkwear/stat...

The second key is that videos don't show texture or sheen. For the person to show you their whole outfit, they have to be far away from the camera. You are also watching on a small screen. Consequently, you are missing important info that would be obvious in real life.

Unfortunately, I'm interacting with you over the internet, so I also have limitations. If I was in a tailoring shop with you, I would pull some fabric books, have you feel the materials, and put some sample garments on you. The difference would then be very obvious.

The best I can do is show you some close-up videos of fabric books. Here is a book for suit fabrics. Notice how the materials are very smooth, slippery, and slightly shiny. They are mostly solid colored, but when there are patterns, they are subtle (i.e., demure).

Now let's look at some fabrics for sport coats. Notice how these are slightly textured and less shiny. If there are patterns, they are larger in scale and louder. Whereas the fabrics in the video above can only be used for suits, these can only be used for sport coats.

This dichotomy—smooth vs textured, shiny vs matte, subtle vs loud—helps you understand the difference between formal and casual. Historically, men did business while wearing dark worsted suits (shiny, smooth, demure) in sober colors such as navy and gray.

While relaxing, they would wear sport coats. Notice how all these fabrics are rougher, less shiny, and more rugged. In the last photo, Steve McQueen even has an elbow patch on his jacket. Business suits are supposed to be formal and elegant, so you'd never do that to a biz suit

This framework doesn't explain everything. Some fabrics are fairly matte and smooth but can still be used for suits. Cotton and linen come to mind. Notably, these can also be broken into suit separates, such that the jacket can be worn without the matching pants.

But this framework gets you closer to understanding why certain things don't work. The chances of you looking bad in a suit jacket worn without the matching pants is very high because it'll look like you spilled something on your suit pants and had to change out of them.

The other issue has to do with color combinations. But first, which looks better to you? Left or right?

I suspect most people will say the photo on the right looks better. Even if tailored clothing is mostly dead today, many people pick up on its language through films, TV shows, and old photos. Some things just look "right" to our eye without us being able to explain.

I can't hash out all the different color combos that work or give a simple theory. As always, this is about social language, which has nuance. But *generally* speaking, if your jacket and pants aren't cut from the same cloth, you're safer if the jacket is darker than your pants.

For jackets, certain colors are also easier to wear with others. It's hard to wear grey sport coats unless they *very obviously* pass as sport coats. This means tweeds, rather than smooth worsted wools. This distinction is why the right prob looks better to you than the left.

Knowing this, which of these outfits look right to you? Which look bad? Set aside fit and just focus on the color combinations. Make a decision before reading on.

IMO, none of these are particularly good. But of the three, the first looks the least bad to me. That's because black and charcoal are very obviously business colors, so the second and third jackets look too much like suit jackets that have lost their matching pants.

For those tan and grey trousers, I would put the men in a navy sport coat. Something matte and ideally with a hint of texture to distinguish it from the smooth, worsted wool suit jackets worn for business. This looks better to me than the outfits above.

Let's go through a few more. Of these, which do you feel work? Which do you feel don't? Again, focus just on the color combinations, not the fit or silhouette.

I again think the first man looks best. Camel colored sport coats can be hard to wear and that color is just too light. The third jacket is too obviously a suit jacket (grey, smooth). If he wants to wear grey jacket with charcoal pants, the jacket needs texture like this.

Here's another. Once again, which look right to you in terms of color combinations? Which don't?

Once again, I think the first man looks best (I actually like this outfit). Navy trousers can be hard to wear with a tailored jacket. If the second two men wanted to wear navy pants, I would do a casual material and pair it with a cream colored linen jacket. Good for summer.

OK, last one. Once more, which do you think works? Which don't?

In this case, I think second man looks best (dark jacket, light pants). Third is OK; first is bad for reasons stated above. Point is: You can't randomly mix and match; you have to think about details. When in doubt, wear a navy sport coat with light colored pants. It's fail safe

@dieworkwear Hey Derek! I appreciate your insight and images you paired with the information. I couldn’t help but notice none of the suit or sport coat examples included men of color. Is it possible color, fit, & function combinations could change with body type & culture?

@angiebeebad here are four black men demonstrating the concepts explained in this thread. i think they look just as good as anyone else employing these concepts. the man in the last slide alludes to the idea of sport coats vs suits in the video.

@dieworkwear I learn so much from your threads derek. Damn the amount of time you must put into this. Truly appreciate it

@dieworkwear Honestly, I read over your thread. Looked at the pictures you used & came to the conclusion this must be cultural. The guys in the video gave examples and they all looked fly and your examples looked so drab. I couldn’t imagine any man feeling ‘Bonita’ with these ‘rules’

@dieworkwear Thank you for your service

@dieworkwear Honestly fashion is subjective and not everyone can afford or has space for a large number of options. For modern everyday this is fine

@dieworkwear Even with your critiques - isn’t this better than zip up sweaters, dress sneakers with lululemon pants, fleece vests and other fall/winter staples

@thetrizzles i don't know how it ranks in comparison to other bad outfits, but why not learn some simple things that allow you to achieve more with your hard earned money? why wear the outfit on the left when you can easily wear the right? they will cost the same if bought from the same place

@dieworkwear Dude, compared to what most guys wear this combo in any well made fabric is Fine. Let them chew on this in peace for a year or two. Curiosity & competition will up their game in time, just let them IN the game first, will ya?

@Sweetbriar Quality tailored clothing is expensive. Why would you not want information out there that helps people buy things they can wear for decades, rather than items they realize don't work in a year or two?