Our ideas about masculinity and macho-ness are constantly moving. Look at Arnold Schwarzenegger's tailoring in the 1980s and 90s. This sort of big, drapey fit used to be considered macho because it emphasized a V-shaped figure.

When designers such as Hedi Slimane and Thom Browne first shrank the suit in the early 2000s as a counter-reaction to the oversized fits of the 1990s, they were not building clothes for athletic figures. They were making them for waif-like models.

Slimane said as much in a 2015 interview. "Many in high school, or in my family, were attempting to make me feel I was half a man because I was lean... They were bullying me for some time, so that I might feel uncomfortable with myself, insinuating skinny was 'queer.'"

About twenty years after designers first debuted this slim fit look, it has trickled into the mainstream, where guys like Conor McGregor now wear it. I'm sorry to be blunt, but I don't think this is an intentional look.

In other words, I don't think McGregor is thinking "slim fit = celebrating my body." I think he's simply ignorant about how clothes should fit, and he's following trends that were originally not built for him. This does not look flattering or comfortable.

If the idea is to celebrate the wearer's physique, who looks better here? A man who has almost no v-shaped figure? Or the two men who have more of a v-shaped figure?

When you shorten a jacket like this, you end up looking like an egg because you push the buttoning point up. Jackson Hinkle has a natural v-shaped figure. But with a short, tight suit, he looks like one of those yoni eggs that go into a woman's private parts.

I simply don't believe that Conor McGregor gets this fit to celebrate his body. I think he simply has no idea how tailoring is supposed to look. He's prob surrounded by MTM clothiers who flatter him, do whatever he asks, and takes his money.

Tristan Tate's suits suffer from the same problems. Short jacket, high buttoning point, and low rise pants make his hips look wider than his shoulders. Very "Birth of Venus" silhouette.

Are these guys getting this type of tailoring to celebrate their body? Or are they simply ignorant about tailoring and following 20+ year old trends built for waif-like models? IMO, it's the second. Which of these two look better to you?

@dieworkwear This is my take: Twenty years ago, tight-fitting suits were uncomfortable, but most stuff today adds a bit of elastane, which allows the suit to move more even though it’s tight. It’s like you’re wearing the hug you never got from your father

@neolithicrumba2 i personally don't have a problem with a touch of elastane in certain fabrics, such as cotton. but i've yet to see a slim fit elastane-blend suit that fits well. you still see collar gaps, buckling lapels, bad chests, etc. example from sene

@dieworkwear What are you thinking about this? Money no object. Always puzzled about trouser length

@Chr1sF1 again, just another guy who's not very informed following 20 year old trends. lots of ad hoc reasoning for why he wears the silhouette he does. the simple answer is just ignorance and low taste.

@dieworkwear You make me want to have a job that makes me wear suits everyday so that I can follow the info you share here 🫡

@dieworkwear I am a drape enjoyer. Don’t know what this skinny suit obsession pathology stems from. I feel like it’s some type of sensory overload. When I was in 2nd grade I hated loose jeans. Made me feel icky. Now, a draped suit/coat feels like Superman’s cape.

@dieworkwear There is a mid-management office uniform in Paris, men wear tight-fitting blue suits that look two sizes too small and long oversized shoes. Long been a mystery to me.

@dieworkwear https://youtu.be/ObzIEBBtiyM?s...

@dieworkwear But the kind of guys who wear suits like this also wear casual clothing the same way. Stretch pants to show quads. Tight shirts to show delts, traps, chest and bicep. High sleeves, loose lower torso. It's an extension of the current active wear aesthetic...

@dieworkwear You’re both right. I think that he thinks he looks good. This is the look he’s going for - he’s not ignorant of that - but he’s ignorant to the fact that the look he’s going for looks silly. That said, it’s all subjective though isn’t it?

@dieworkwear Wearing a suit to “show off my body” is the last thing I think most guys think of. Great thread, Derek. 👌🏼

@dieworkwear Me struggling in a suit from a few years back thanks to a larger belly is forgivable, him going to fittings and being measured to look like me struggling in a suit is insane

@dieworkwear For anyone who doesn't follow Irish news - yesterday a jury found that CMcG had commited sexual assault https://www.thejournal.ie/cono...

@dieworkwear If you’re jacked A suit that fits and drapes well will make you look like a mountain, but a suit like Conor’s will just make you look like you have high blood pressure

@dieworkwear I have lived a life full of cliched masculine tropes, while working in field that consecrates them as virtues, where the suit is overwhelmingly the uniform of choice in my immediate circles, and I find these manbaby suits embarrassing and gauche.

@dieworkwear Best account on twitter

@dieworkwear Love this thread. Especially the yoni and venus references, which are brutally emasculating for the wannabe gigachads.

@dieworkwear Suspect they buy what’s expensive. Always think those suits look like somebody borrowed them from a much smaller person. Give me the suit Sean Connery wore in Goldfinger any day.

@dieworkwear His suits are so tight, his pants make him look bow legged

@dieworkwear It's not pleasing to the eye and looks cheap, like they are stuffed into an old suit and couldn't afford one that fits.

@dieworkwear Honestly when I see a guy bursting from a suit I just think--ugh. It really just conveys a type. A type who doesn't know how to dress like a grown man who understands what his body looks like.

@dieworkwear Frankly, I love and respect your opinion on everything thus far.

@dieworkwear At the very least, seeing the entire outline of the pocket looks so goofy. I see that on super tight suits and always think how ridiculous that looks. Plus, where’s your phone going?

@dieworkwear You need to understand your body type. Not all trend will fit you, though if you know how to manipulate the illusion, it can work. The same applies for womenswear, just an adjustment of a cm or so makes a difference.

@dieworkwear Every year, I keep praying it will be the end of the slim fit suit.