Published: August 5, 2025
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I disagree. I will tell you what's wrong with his jeans. 🧵

Let's start with an experiment. Here are two men wearing tailored jackets with jeans. Which do you think looks better?

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

If you choose the outfit on the right, then we have the same taste. But why does he look better? The answer stems fro a basic rule of classic tailoring: the jacket needs to have a certain relationship with the trousers so as to form a harmonious whole.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

This means the jacket's line has to flow into the trousers. And the trouser rise has to be high enough to hide the shirt that would otherwise peek below the jacket's buttoning point, disrupting the line. See how the outfit on the left is more harmonious than the right.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

The problem is that jeans aren't cut like trousers — and they shouldn't be, as that will make them look weird. Jeans are commonly lower in the rise and smaller through the fork. They are also typically a bit slimmer through the leg. This results in a different silhouette.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

This distinction can really disrupt a tailored outfit. On the left, we see how low rise, tapered trousers exacerbate the worst of this look (orphaned suit jacket with jeans, which looks like a sartorial mullet). The outfit on the right is even worse, as the man looks like Gru.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

There's a rich history of men wearing tailored jackets, but when they're successful, you'll notice a theme: the jacket is casual (a sport coat, not a suit jacket) and often made from textured materials like tweed. The jeans are slightly higher in the rise and fuller in the leg.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

Low-rise jeans have to be styled differently. There are many groups who have worn them stylishly in the past, so you have to find the original images to understand their cultural language. Those groups don't include people who wear classically cut sport coats.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

If you're looking for jeans you can wear with sport coats, consider Buck Mason's Full Saddle cut, Levi's Vintage Clothing's 1947 501s, Rubato Lot Nr1, Orslow 105 and 107, and The Armoury by Nigel Cabourn. Todd Shelton can also make custom jeans if you can't find what you need.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

wtf a military drone just flew over me??

Image in tweet by derek guy

@dieworkwear you have the most boring account on this website. you could try being original

@John_Faker i think my account is pretty original. few people have wasted 15 years of their life on menswear forums arguing about tiny clothing details no one cares about

@dieworkwear Are you gay?

@imafirinma close your eyes and open your mouth. you'll find out.

@dieworkwear These posts are wonderful. Funny and we all learn a touch from them. I follow you for both reasons.

@dieworkwear I other words, Hegseth looks unfashionable — like he dressed himself.

@dieworkwear it’s the fuckass belt buckle.

@dieworkwear man someone needs to make an anime in a dieworkwear world where the battles are basically dramatic fashion critiques

@dieworkwear Also that looks like a lady wearing pants if you ask me. Like the anti-Robert Plant. He’s plant less

@dieworkwear The horse wears it best

@dieworkwear Your thread is everybody's favorite! #TopUnroll https://threadreaderapp.com/th... šŸ™šŸ¼@DempPan for šŸ„‡unroll

@dieworkwear Maybe you have addressed this before, but I wonder how anyone in the public eye doesn’t have someone dressing them. Most of the outfits I see on these politicians are atrocious.

@dieworkwear I don’t always understand the technical language but I know you’re always right! šŸ˜‚

@dieworkwear My only input on this post is that I implore, lightly beg, and/or strongly suggest that men STOP wearing skinny jeans.šŸ‘– No one wants to see scrawny legs or moose knuckles. But, tbf, I'm absolutely ok w/women not wearing them either. Both have some type of groin area awkwardness

@dieworkwear but what about his genes tho šŸ¤”

@dieworkwear What jeans look like after 20+ lap dances.

@dieworkwear Haha 🤣 you crack me up

@dieworkwear Love the detailed breakdown, always learning something new from your threads.

@dieworkwear Thanks Derek. I learn so much from your posts. I'm no fashionisto but I like to be able to put a solid look together and avoid the pitfalls. With @SecDef I think he's trying to bring focus to the belt buckle. Of course Magnum wore it best but I don't think Pete's pairing is all

@dieworkwear Jeans critique in progress

@dieworkwear so how it should be? genuine question, as it's hard to grasp the final idea as examples are with random poses that hide the parts with arms, shadow etc you're mentioning

@dieworkwear The blazer should not be buttoned.

@dieworkwear Those jeans could use a serious fit check.

@dieworkwear And others can tell us what’s wrong with his politics.

@dieworkwear Love that this is on my time LFG @dieworkwear šŸ¤™

@dieworkwear I was waiting for this thread

@dieworkwear I didn’t realize genetic predisposition to alcohol abuse was a good genetic trait… my grandfather who died at the age of 49 would’ve been proud. Not for long but still…

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