Published: October 21, 2025
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Fall is upon us and soon it will be time for waxed cotton jackets. Let me suggest ways to wear one. But first, which outfit do you think is more stylish? Choose before opening this thread. 🧵

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

If you choose the right outfit, then we have the same taste. But why do we like it better? To understand, we must go back to the invention of this fabric itself. In the 18th century, English sailors repurposed the linseed oil-soaked canvas they used for sails.

Image in tweet by derek guy

These "oilcloths," as they were known, repelled rain and blocked wind, so sailors made them into capes and smocks for sailing on the high sea. But the material was stiff, heavy, and prone to cracking, so the British maritime company Francis Webster & Sons refined the process.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

Instead of spreading linseed oil over canvas, they used beeswax or paraffin wax, which resulted in a lighter, more stable, and less rancid fabric. Francis Webster & Sons unfortunately went out of business, but their technology was picked up the South Shields company Barbour.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

By the mid-20th century, Barbour because the go-to jacket for British outdoorsmen and some motorcyclists, particularly among the well-to-do. In fact, there's a scene in the Netflix show The Crown, where Margaret Thatcher arrives to see the Queen at Balmoral Estate.

Image in tweet by derek guy

Thatcher, who was raised in the small market town of Grantham and worked in politics in London, was wholly unprepared for country living. To meet the royal family for an elk hunt, she wore a bright blue dress. The royals looked at her confused, wondering where's her Barbour.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

This was not wholly fiction. Queen Elizabeth often wore a Barbour jacket while out in the countryside, as did style icon Princess Diana. And of course, so does King Charles.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

It's through this history that Barbour — and to a lesser degree, waxed cotton — gained it's three most important meanings. Waxed cotton stands for rugged utility, but in the right forms, can also give a whiff of upper class lifestyle. It's also associated with the countryside.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

This is why Steve Bannon never looks quite right in his Barbour. He teams it with "city clothes," such as black Dickies work shirts and navy cargo pants. Waxed cotton looks more at home next to rustic colors like brown, taupe, and umber.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

Of course, given the historical usage of Barbour in prep, it also sits comfortably alongside more refined things, such as gray turtleneck or even the right suit. But black Dickies work shirt — layered over a black t-shirt — makes no sense, as it's neither country nor prep.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

If you want to soften the look, consider something in a cream wool, such as a cream colored Shetland or Aran. Such sweaters can help fill up the space in a waxed cotton jacket and give you a sense of rare refinement.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

Understanding the history of clothes in this way can help you create more sensible outfits. For waxed cotton, consider color, texture, material, and styling. Lean towards country clothes — cream fleeces, checked tweeds, and taupe whipcord trousers.

Image in tweet by derek guy
Image in tweet by derek guy

@dieworkwear How can I maintain the coating so that it gets shiny in large patches, and looks like I somehow sweated through it and then ate a double whopper and fries off of it?

@dieworkwear Your thread is gaining traction! #TopUnroll https://threadreaderapp.com/th... šŸ™šŸ¼@ipasandxanies for šŸ„‡unroll

@dieworkwear ā€œBut first, which outfit do you think is more stylish?ā€ Obviously the ass.

@dieworkwear Huh, you've proven that almost anything looks better than Steve Bannon.

@dieworkwear I think this is the first fashion piece I've ever read in my entire life. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I feel a little bit more knowledgeable that I did.

@dieworkwear I was going to say ā€œThe ass, obviouslyā€. But then I realized that wouldn’t answer your question.

@dieworkwear Fun read I’ve been obsessed with Barbour my whole life

@dieworkwear I was gifted a waxed cotton jacket for my historic preservation program made up in Astoria Oregon, which is very much still a fisherman town. The only negative is the whole closet smells like wax lol.

@dieworkwear šŸ˜‚ brilliant thread

@dieworkwear Derek real question need real help bought a Barbour like two years ago but have cats and it’s impossible what to do

@dieworkwear I have a Barbour jacket but unfortunately @Barbour doesn’t stand by their jackets. I won’t buy another one. It’s too bad; I loved it. And I thought it was synonymous with quality.

@dieworkwear We need a Steve Bannon Halloween Outfit @grok what would it look like

@dieworkwear The Barbour International line is right there for Steve if he wanted to wear black Dickies

@dieworkwear I love my Barbour jacket. You are right on the social levels. Mine has a strange pocket in the back I couldn’t figure out a use for a British friend from a posh background mentioned it’s for holding shot gun shells when out hunting. Makes perfect sense with the pics you posted

@dieworkwear I have a @Barbour raincoat for horseback riding. You can buckle it around your legs and the bottom half of the back snaps up. I’ve had it 30+ years!

@dieworkwear An ass and a donkey in wax jackets walked into a bar…

@dieworkwear the outfit on the right is not only more stylish, it is also useful!

@dieworkwear it doesn't help that the guy on the left doesn't look to have ever re-waxed his jacket.

@dieworkwear Its a donkey carrying lambs. It“s not going to get any more stylish.

@dieworkwear Is anyone going to tell me why that donkey has so many little sheep in its pockets?

@dieworkwear That donkey is looking good even without those world class pocket squares. With? Unbeatable

@dieworkwear I'm always going to pick one I can fit fluffy animals in...

@dieworkwear The donkey one has the right blend of form and function. The greasy man one is only sad’n smelly.

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